At Karing Hearts, we believe in giving back to those who have dedicated their lives to serving and protecting others. As part of our mission to support and honor those who have served, we are excited to offer donated puppies that can be trained as service dogs—absolutely free of charge.

We understand that veterans, military personnel, and first responders often face unique challenges, and we believe that a well-trained service dog can provide valuable support in enhancing your quality of life. Whether it’s offering companionship, assistance with daily tasks, or emotional support, a service dog can make a life-changing difference.

If you or someone you know is interested in receiving a puppy to be trained as a service dog, we encourage you to reach out to Karing Hearts through our Contact page. Our puppies are ready and eager to begin their journey of helping those who have given so much for our country and communities.

Don’t miss this incredible opportunity. We are here to serve those who have served us.

Contact us today to learn more about how you can receive a donated service dog puppy.

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Before you welcome a new puppy into your home, you’ll need to make sure your space is ready for them. Puppies require a lot of attention and care, so making a checklist of what you’ll need is suggested and picking up these basics for your new puppy is a great place to start.

Congratulations! You’ve taken the plunge and joined the exciting and sometimes chaotic world of dog ownership. By now, you’ve probably done some research and have an understanding of how to care for your new puppy. Your house is going to be the place where your dog spends the majority of his life, so it’s vitally important that you take precautions to make sure it’s a safe environment for him.

Puppies are extremely energetic and curious, so when puppy-proofing your home, you must be thorough. It’s amazing what one little puppy can get into. By puppy-proofing, you’re trying to keep the puppy safe and prevent him from getting access to anything dangerous to him.

Checklist for Puppy-Proofing Indoors

• Unplug electrical cords, move them out of reach, or string them through cord concealers. These chewing hazards can cause burns to the mouth or electrical shock.
• Avoid feeding food from the table. Pups may look adorable as they beg for food, but many human foods are not good for them. Pay special attention to sugarless gum, chocolate, raisins, and other foods that are especially poisonous to dogs.
• Keep cleaning supplies in high cabinets or secured behind doors with childproof latches. When using them, make sure that the puppy is kept out of the area, so he won’t be affected by the vapors given off by chemicals.
• Put all medications away. Avoid keeping medications, even in pill bottles or dispensers, on low tables, bathroom counters, or night tables, where the puppy can easily get to them.
• Keep toilet lids closed, so the puppy won’t drink out of the toilet or fall in.
• Keep doors and windows closed at all times, so the puppy can’t escape or fall out, and secure the cords that raise blinds, so they won’t get caught around the puppy’s neck.
• Put away small items that are choking hazards — such as coins, paper clips, rubber bands, and jewelry — to prevent the puppy from choking on them.
• Keep all sharp objects out of your dog’s reach. This includes knives, scissors, razors, and tools.
• Secure trashcans. Puppies are attracted to the smells coming from garbage, which can upset their tummies or even be poisonous.
• Move poisonous houseplants, so the puppy can’t eat them.

When you take your puppy outside, you need to take precautions there, too. Your backyard is going to be your puppy’s playground (and bathroom), so it’s important that it is also clear of all hazards.

Checklist for Puppy-Proofing Outdoors

• Fence the yard, if possible. It’s best to have a fence that is high enough to prevent the puppy from jumping over it, with no holes to crawl through.
• Remove toxic plants in your yard to prevent your pup from mistaking them for a snack.
• Put a fence around in-ground pools. Pools are a big hazard for puppies. A fence surrounding the pool will prevent the puppy from accidentally falling in. You or a dog trainer can teach your pup pool safety, as well.
• Designate a puppy area. Set aside a portion of the yard for the puppy to use as his bathroom area.
• Keep the lawn trimmed and brush under control. Ticks are more likely to hide in tall grasses and latch onto your pup.
• Keep your dog away from the yard if it has recently been treated with fertilizers, pesticides, or insecticides. Try to avoid using insecticides because the chemicals can be very harmful to your puppy.
• Be wary of heat. Avoid keeping your dog outside when it is hot, and always have shade and cool water available
• Clean up after your puppy to be sure he won’t try to eat his own feces.
• Supervise your puppy. Young puppies should not be left outside alone. This is the time to play with them and train them, and to protect them from predators, heatstroke, and other hazards.

Puppies are completely dependent on you for everything, and their safety should be your No. 1 priority. It’s a hefty responsibility, but most definitely worth it

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Puppies explore the world through their mouths, so they’ll chew anything they can sink their teeth into. By providing them with toys that indulge their teething instincts, you’re more likely to spare your shoes and socks from destruction.

During a puppy’s period of rapid development, from 2-months-old to 10-months-old, it’s important to give them appropriate toys, and both dog breed and personality can play a role in what toys might become your pup’s favorites. If your puppy bursts with energy and enjoys a challenge, they’ll love a toy that they can puzzle apart, or one that dispenses treats. While some pups like to snuggle up with a soft toy, others dogs may tear it to shreds.

Read on to discover some toys and treats to offer your puppy to help soothe painful gums and distract from the discomfort of teething.

What You Need to Know About Puppy Teething Toys

Whether you’re helping your puppy through teething, teaching good behaviors, or just enjoying playtime, good quality, age- and size-appropriate toys are as important to dog development as training and exercise.

At around four months old, puppies start to teethe, as their baby teeth are replaced by adult teeth and molars. At this stage, chewing may seem like your puppy’s obsession, and they may chew on anything and everything. As any parent of a teething baby knows, teething is painful, so your puppy will need ways to reduce the discomfort of sore gums.

Teething toys soothe your puppy, while giving you an opportunity to teach them what they can and can’t chew on. For instance, don’t give your dog toys that resemble taboo items, like a squeaky shoe toy. Size is also an important consideration, as toys made for the small mouths of an 8-to-10-week-old puppy may cause a 6-to-9 month-old to choke.

Always read the manufacturer’s guidelines to make sure the toy is appropriate for your dog’s age and size, and that it’s been tested for safety.

No matter what toy you select for your puppy, it’s important to watch them when they play, and to check the toys occasionally to make sure your puppy hasn’t bitten off any chunks. Discard your puppy’s toy if it appears to be nearing its breaking point.

Best Starter Kit for Teething Puppies

AKC Shop Puppy Teething Pack

This starter set of puppy toys and treats from the AKC Shop comes with a cooling Chilly Bone, a Nylabone chicken-flavored puppy chew, Buddy Biscuits, a KONG toy, treat pods, and a guide for dealing with teething puppies. These toys will help cool aching gums and provide hours of chewing entertainment for active puppies.

With an average rating of 4.5 out of five stars, reviewers expressed thankfulness for this well-equipped assortment. Price: $37

Best Soothing Teething Toy

Nylabone Just for Puppies Key Ring Bone

The shapes and textures of this Nylabone toy will satisfy your puppy’s need to chew, while keeping them entertained. Plus, the different textures on the keys are specifically designed to clean teeth and massage gums.

While many owners recommended this teething toy, some have warned that the small keys can be chewed off, which may lead to internal damage. Price: $6

Best Teeth Cleaning Puppy Toy

Nylabone Puppy Chew Toy Puppy Teething Dinosaur

If you want a teething toy that freshens breath and cleans teeth at the same time, this Nylabone dinosaur is the solution for you. This teething bone is designed for puppies up to 25 pounds, but it is not intended for aggressive chewers. The fun, T-Rex shaped puppy toy comes in an enticing chicken flavor.

Many users praised the durability of this toy, while some reported that dogs who don’t typically enjoy chew toys liked this one. However, others caution that this toy can be dangerous, as chunks of the toy may be torn off and digested. Price: $5

Best Toy for Aggressive Chewers

NWK Freezeable Pet Teether Cooling Chew Toy

This non-toxic NWK puppy toy can be frozen to enable cooling relief over hours of chewing. The thick ring is made of 100-percent purified water, and reviewers noted that the durable ring was able to withstand even the most aggressive chewers. Price: $10

Best Small Puppy Toy

KONG Puppy Binkie

Made in the USA, this KONG puppy binkie is perfect for small breeds under 35 pounds, and may be filled with treats to better appeal to dogs. The binkie is available in small, medium, and large sizes, with color choices of blue or pink.

Though many users liked the soft, squishy texture that was appropriate for teething, others reported the toy being quickly destroyed within a day or two. Price: $8

Best Made in the USA Puppy Toy

KONG Small Puppy Teething Toy

For a fun, durable toy that is designed for a puppy’s baby teeth, try KONG’s small chew toy. The KONG’s odd shape enables erratic bounces, creating a fun game of fetch. Manufactured in the USA, this puppy toy can be filled with kibble, peanut butter, or other treats for added enjoyment. Scores of reviewers rave that puppies love this classic KONG toy. Price: $19

Best Non-Toxic Puppy Toy

SCENEREAL Small Dog Rope Chew Toy

Available in an assortment of six fruits and vegetables, these Scenereal rope toys are sure to provide hours of fun for your pup. The toys range in size from 2.5 to 8.5 inches, making them compatible for cats and small dogs, but less suitable for medium or large dogs. They are all made of non-toxic cotton, and contain a squeaker hidden inside.

While few reviews are available, buyers noted these toys are mostly tear-resistant, though one reported that the yarn unravelled after repeated use. Price: $13

Best Affordable Teething Toy

Petstages Cool Teething Stick

Freeze this Petstages puppy toy and let your dog cool their aching gums as they chew. The cooling stick crunches when frozen, and includes bright colors, streamers, and ribbons to entice eager dogs.

Customers note that the toy doesn’t stay always cold, and the outer material rips easily, although others affirm that the toy is most effective when frozen solid. Price: $4

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Congratulations on deciding to welcome a new puppy into your life! Whether this is your first dog, or it’s been a long time since you’ve owned a puppy, there’s a lot to learn about what to expect and how to handle certain changes in your dog as he ages. Here, we are focusing on the teething process. (Yes, puppies have baby teeth that fall out, just like human babies!) We’ve compiled a puppy teething timeline, so you know exactly what to expect as your furry friend grows into his adult body.

Weeks 2 to 4:

Your puppy will still be with his mother and breeder when his baby teeth start coming in. At this point, his eyes will have opened, and he’ll still be nursing.

Weeks 5 to 6:

By now all of your puppy’s baby teeth should have come in. Dogs usually have about 28 baby teeth total. Around this time, the breeder will likely have already or will be in the process of weaning the puppies in the litter as they learn to eat moist, soft puppy food.

Weeks 12 to 16:

This is around the time you’ll get to take your puppy home with you (some breeders let puppies go to their new owners’ homes at 8 weeks, but others wait an extra month or so, depending on the breed and the individual breeder’s preferences).

This is also the time when may start to find little crumb- to rice-sized teeth around your home as your puppy’s baby teeth start to shed and permanent adult teeth emerge. Anyone who has ever cared for a teething baby knows this process is painful! You should offer your puppy safe chew toys, like a Kong or Treat Pod toy, at this point in his development. Also, ask your vet to check your puppy’s mouth to make sure everything is moving along as it should.

This period is also important for socialization — that is, getting your puppy used to new experiences in a low-stress situation. There’s a lot involved in this process, but since we’re on the topic of teeth here, this is a good time to start touching your puppy’s mouth, outside and in. (Be careful that he doesn’t nip you — those remaining puppy teeth are razor sharp.) By doing this, you’ll be setting your puppy up to be able to enjoy (or at least tolerate) getting his teeth brushed.

6 Months and Older:

By the time, your puppy is about six months old or so, all of his puppy teeth should have fallen out, and his adult teeth should have grown in. In general, adults dogs have about 42 teeth (fun fact: that’s about 10 more than people!). If you notice any baby teeth remaining, make sure to let your veterinarian know as they may need to be removed.

Keeping the Teeth Healthy

Now that your puppy has a full mouth of pearly white chompers, your job is to keep them that way. Dogs don’t have the sense to use their tongue to dislodge chewed food from their teeth—that combined with plaque in the mouth can lead to dog with stinky breath, if periodontal disease occurs, serious medical problems.

By brushing your pup’s teeth regularly, you can prevent or decrease the need for veterinary cleanings, which usually require anesthetizing the dog.

Begin by gently scrubbing the teeth with a finger brush or gauze pad. Later you can graduate to a toothbrush and canine toothpaste. Toothbrushes should be soft, and toothpaste must be formulated for a dog’s system (an enzymatic toothpaste will work both mechanically and chemically to destroy plaque). Toothpaste made for people can cause an upset stomach if your pup swallows it. Teeth can also be cleaned with a paste made of baking soda and water.

Also, certain foods, treats, and other products are available to help reduce plaque. Look for products that have a seal of approval from the Veterinary Oral Health Council. A list is available here. For more help with your teething puppy, check out our puppy teething pack which includes toys, treats, and more!

Good luck on guiding your new puppy through these exciting first few months of his life

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While furnishings are different than if your pup is considered an F1, F1b, F2, F2b which is specific to the generation, but it definitely ties back to the coat type your puppy will have. In many cases this may be confused when you are determining coat type by the generation of the puppy – keep in mind that the generation is a completely different designation than Furnished or unfurnished (coat type). Please keep in mind that the Poodle is the most heterozygous breed of canine and there are many variants to their genetic makeup due to many generations of breeding for specific traits – one of which is coat type.

Furnishings are responsible for the bearded fluffiness or “curlieness” that makes a doodle look like a doodle.  It is a dominant gene (also called an allele) that is passed down from the Poodle and makes a doodle fluffy.  But, if you remember your biology lessons, we all inherit one allele from our mother and one from our father.  The furnishings gene simply masks the expression of the recessive unfurnished gene that a lot of doodles still carry in their genome.  There are three identified furnishings alleles: Strong Furnishings (F), Weak Furnishings (Fw) and unfurnished (f, also known as IC) – dominant in that order.

Poodles are a furnished breed.  All Poodle genotypes (are supposed to) look like this: FF.  They receive one F from their mother and one F from their father.  Simple enough.  Now we add to that…  Not all Poodles are FF. In the dog world there are many different “lines” within each breed.  In Poodles there are “show lines”, “working lines” and “pet lines”.  Without dragging dog-politics into this let’s just say that we can and do see Fw and f alleles in Poodles, and more often we see a heterozygous genome in the pet lines. Therefore, it is important, when using a Poodle to make doodles, that the Poodle is genetically tested.  Never assume just because it is a Poodle that it is homozygous FF.

Saint Bernards and New Foundlands are unfurnished. They are homozygous recessive ff.  All First-generation Saint Berdoodles will be handed down one f allele from their Saint or New Foundland parent.

​Now, when a breeder chooses to breed an F1 dog (Ff) they need to make a decision.  If they breed an Ff dog to another Ff dog, statistically speaking, they are going to end up with 25% of the puppies being ff.  This means the puppies are not furnished and they do not have the fluffy doodle look that their siblings will display.  These puppies are commonly referred to being Unfurnished or IC Affected.  Each parent carried a copy of the Improper Coat (IC) gene (IC is interchangeable with f for unfurnished. Lingo just depends on who you are talking to.  Breeders have a tendency to use the terms associated with IC – IC, Improper Coat, IC affected).

​Furnished does not mean they won’t shed. Shedding is on several different genes and the curly hair gene is part of that whole picture. A smooth coat Saint doesn’t have a curl gene, but a rough coat does. That is why smooth coated Saints aren’t typically used for Doodles.

Canine Hair Furnishings (animalgenetics.us)

Click here for more information on our St. Berdoodles or Newfadoodles. To learn more about Karing Hearts Kennels or to adopt a Karing Hearts Giant Doodle, simply follow the link.

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If you’re considering bringing a St. Berdoodle into your home, you may have encountered terms like “F1” and “F1B” and wondered what they actually mean. Designer dog breeds, like the St. Berdoodle, are becoming increasingly popular. These breeds are created by crossing two different purebred dogs to produce a unique hybrid with a combination of traits from both parent breeds. Many believe that mixing two breeds leads to healthier dogs, as it introduces genetic diversity—a phenomenon known as hybrid vigor.

In the world of designer dogs, F1 and F1B refer to specific generations of crossbreeding. Understanding these acronyms is key when choosing the right St. Berdoodle for your family. Let’s break it down:

What is an F1 St. Berdoodle?

An F1 St. Berdoodle is the first-generation offspring of a purebred St. Bernard (or Newfoundland) and a purebred Poodle. These dogs are typically 50% St. Bernard and 50% Poodle, however with genetics the offspring will acquire certain traits but not others. F1 St. Berdoodles are often a good balance of both parent breeds, making them unique in terms of temperament, size, and coat type.

What is an F1B St. Berdoodle?

An F1B St. Berdoodle is created by breeding an F1 St. Berdoodle (50% St. Bernard, 50% Poodle) with a purebred Poodle. The result is typically 75% Poodle and 25% St. Bernard. This generation is more likely to have a non-shedding, hypoallergenic coat, making it an ideal choice for allergy sufferers. It’s also easier to manage their grooming due to their Poodle-like coat, which tends to be curlier and more tightly curled than that of the F1 generation.

F1 vs. F1B St. Berdoodle: Key Differences

While both F1 and F1B St. Berdoodles are charming and make wonderful pets, there are important differences to consider in terms of appearance, coat type, health, and suitability for different lifestyles.

Genetics & Health

• F1 St. Berdoodle: As a first-generation hybrid, the F1 St. Berdoodle benefits from hybrid vigor, which generally means they are healthier and less prone to inherited genetic diseases. Hybrid vigor occurs because the offspring inherit a broader genetic pool from both parents, reducing the likelihood of recessive genetic defects.

• F1B St. Berdoodle: The F1B generation has a slightly lower level of hybrid vigor since it’s a backcross—meaning it’s bred back to one of the purebred parents (the Poodle). While they may have fewer genetic issues than purebreds, they don’t benefit as much from hybrid vigor as the F1 generation.

Appearance & Coat Type

• F1 St. Berdoodle: The coat of an F1 St. Berdoodle can be straight, wavy, or curly, depending on which traits they inherit from their parents. Their shedding can also vary, as the St. Bernard’s coat is thicker and sheds more than the Poodle’s coat.

• F1B St. Berdoodle: F1B St. Berdoodles tend to have curly or wavy coats, thanks to the higher percentage of Poodle genetics. These coats are usually more consistent and require less maintenance in terms of shedding. They are often considered hypoallergenic, making them a popular choice for allergy sufferers.

Size

• F1 St. Berdoodle: Due to their St. Bernard parent, F1 St. Berdoodles are typically large dogs, with an adult weight range of 100–125 pounds. Their size may vary depending on whether they inherit more from the Poodle or St. Bernard.

• F1B St. Berdoodle: F1B St. Berdoodles are generally slightly smaller than F1s, but their size can still range significantly. The Poodle’s influence makes them somewhat more compact, but they still fall within a similar weight range, depending on the parent.

Health Benefits

• F1 St. Berdoodle: Thanks to their hybrid vigor, F1 St. Berdoodles often enjoy better health and are less likely to inherit common breed-specific health issues. However, like all hybrids, they can still inherit conditions from both parent breeds, such as hip dysplasia, eye issues, and other genetic concerns.

• F1B St. Berdoodle: While F1B St. Berdoodles are still healthier than purebreds, they have a slightly reduced advantage in hybrid vigor compared to F1s. However, they benefit from a lower risk of shedding and allergy-related issues due to their increased Poodle genetics.

Which One Should You Choose?

Both F1 and F1B St. Berdoodles make excellent family pets, but your choice depends on your preferences and lifestyle:

• Choose an F1 St. Berdoodle if you prefer a dog with the potential for more hybrid vigor and don’t mind lite shedding. The F1 is a great choice if you’re looking for a large, healthy, and energetic dog that’s a balance of both breeds.

• Choose an F1B St. Berdoodle if you have moderate-to-severe allergies or prefer a dog with minimal shedding. The F1B is also a good option if you want a more predictable curly coat and are willing to deal with slightly fewer health benefits due to the backcrossing.

What About F2 St. Berdoodles?

An F2 St. Berdoodle is the second-generation hybrid, produced by breeding two F1 St. Berdoodles. This generation is less predictable, both in terms of appearance and temperament, and is generally considered the most genetically inconsistent of the St. Berdoodle generations. Due to the variability, most breeders avoid F2 generations.

Final Thoughts

Choosing between an F1 and F1B St. Berdoodle depends on what you prioritize in your new pet—whether it’s health, coat type, size, or hypoallergenic qualities. Regardless of which generation you choose, both make wonderful family companions with the right care and attention.

For more information about St. Berdoodles or Newfadoodles, or to adopt one from Karing Hearts Kennels, click here.

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Housetraining your new puppy can be easy with the right approach. By observing your puppy’s behavior, recognizing their signals, and consistently rewarding them for appropriate actions, you can teach them where and when to go potty.

1. Supervise Your Puppy

Prevent accidents by closely supervising your puppy and limiting their access to the house when you’re not able to watch them. Confine your puppy to a small area when you cannot supervise them directly, such as a crate or playpen. This helps them learn the boundaries and reduces the risk of accidents.

2. Recognize Potty Signals

Puppies will often sniff the ground or circle around when they need to eliminate. When you notice these signs, take your puppy to the designated potty spot right away. Ideally, don’t wait for these behaviors to happen—take your puppy outside regularly to set a routine.

3. Create a Consistent Feeding Schedule

Feed your puppy the same amount of food at the same time each day. After meals, or if your puppy walks away from the bowl after about 10 to 15 minutes, take them outside for a potty break.

Puppies usually need to eliminate after eating, drinking, playing, resting, or sleeping. These behaviors are also common in adult dogs. Take your puppy outside 5 to 30 minutes after these activities.

4. Use a Verbal Cue

Choose a specific verbal cue, such as “Go Potty” or “Do your business,” to help your puppy associate the command with the desired behavior. When your puppy begins to eliminate, quietly praise them. After they finish, provide enthusiastic praise and reward them immediately with affection or a treat. This positive reinforcement encourages your puppy to repeat the desired behavior.

If your puppy doesn’t eliminate, calmly return them to their confined area and take them out again in about 15 minutes.

5. Stay Consistent and Be Patient

Consistency is key! Reward your puppy each time they eliminate in the right place with praise. As your puppy gets the hang of it, you can reduce the number of food rewards and rely more on praise to reinforce good behavior.

Preventing accidents is the best way to ensure successful housetraining. If your puppy has an accident indoors, do not scold them. Instead, clean the area thoroughly and deodorize it to prevent repeat accidents in the same spot.

Young puppies (8 to 10 weeks old) may need to go outside every 30 to 60 minutes. Keep track of your puppy’s needs to avoid accidents and make the housetraining process smoother.

For more information on St. Berdoodles or Newfadoodles, or to learn more about adopting a Karing Hearts Giant Doodle, click here.

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